patience

on friday night, we got back from our first site visit and some of us decided to meet downstairs to go check out the much talked about "madurai meenakshi cotton market." many people had mentioned how tailors located close by to the temple could replicate anything you gave them. (When I heard this, I imagined a quiet dirt path on the way to the temple that housed a wall of cotton, blowing in the wind. there would be several tailors, dressed in white shirts and pants (like men of my grandfather's time) ready to take measurements and sew beautiful outfits on their sewing machines that shined in the sun.) Sadly, this fantasy only held true in my head.

In any case, about ten of us decided to start walking from the Hotel Supreme to the Meenakshi Temple (where the cotton market was located). The streets of Madurai are packed with people, cars and animals. (I know, technically I described all of India.) However, the drivers are even more erratic and the streets are significantly more narrow. I imagine that the Madurai city planners did not intend for the masses of people that come on a daily basis to the temple. As we came to the first major intersection, most of the group was able to cross, but three of us got left behind because of a crazy motorcycle driver who nearly took of a few of my toes.

On our way, a gentleman randomly started chatting with us and then insisted that we go and see the golden view of the temple. He kept talking about how the tickets were free and that he didn't want any money, his dad worked for the temple and he was just promoting it because the view was just so beautiful. this scheme was presented to us all three days of our visit. we realized after a minute or so, that this man was entirely too excited about the temple view and was probably trying to make a few extra rupees.

anyway, we eventually made our way towards the meenakshi temple and then onto a road that paralleled it, lined with several street vendors. I asked a gentleman in the street if he knew where the cotton market was. He decided that he would lead me to a store that was not the cotton market, but instead, it was his boutique. He, like the other man, had noticed our group of tourists and decided to coerce us into buying things at his shop. I said that we were looking for the big cotton market and eventually the three of us found our way, to a big sprawling semi-outdoor bazaar. It was a lot more chaotic than I had envisioned and definitely less peaceful. (see first paragraph) I traversed the long aisles, that were lined with several tailors, small clothing shops and other knick knacks. The tailors, were mostly dressed in undershirts and dhothis (cloth that men in india wear fastened around the waist), sewing on their old steel machines. From every small booth people called "madam! sir! very nice cloth madam ...." It went on like that throughout the market. I had initially been excited about getting something made, but it was so chaotic and there were so many people trying to sell us stuff, so i eventually just lost interest.

it was definitely an interesting culture shock - i was having a much harder time dealing with all of the vendors and random people in the streets trying to become friend with us. my friends, on the other hand, who have traveled more than me were were used to being pestered by shopkeepers and the like and took things in stride. (Advice to anyone who comes to Madurai or any real touristy place in India, the situation is completely within your control, just as long as you realize that the people there are doing their job, you just have to keep up the bargain by doing yours....)

I am still learning that lesson..